Saturday, December 10, 2011

Grundfos UP15-10BUC5/LC 59896237 1/25 HP Bronze Circulating Pump - 115 Volt

!: Used Grundfos UP15-10BUC5/LC 59896237 1/25 HP Bronze Circulating Pump - 115 Volt sale


Rate : | Price : $207.37 | Post Date : Dec 10, 2011 20:44:59
Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Grundfos UP 15-10BUC5/LC Recirculator Pump with Line Cord for hot water saves money, saves water, and saves time with its HWR (hot water recirculation) technology. An average home wastes over 11,461 gallons of water per year due to unnecessary wait for hot water to reach showers and faucets. In typical plumbing, water is pumped from the water heater through the pipes to the tap. Once the water is turned off, the remaining water in the pipes cools and the wait for hot water occurs the next time the tap is turned on. The Series UP 59896237 pump attaches to the water heater through the hot water pipe and constantly circulates hot water through the pipe from the heater to the tap. They water in the pipe is always hot and no water is wasted; never wait for hot water again.Features an open system, 0-9 U.S. GPM (gallons per minute),1 speed, 1/25 Horse Power, Bronze 1/2" Sweat Housing with Integrated Check Valve, 115 Volts and 55 Watts. For use with circulation of hot or cold water in domestic

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Saturday, November 26, 2011

Watts 500800 Premier Hot Water Recirculation Pump, Blue

!: discounted Watts 500800 Premier Hot Water Recirculation Pump, Blue buy now

Brand : Watts | Rate : | Price : $189.00
Post Date : Nov 26, 2011 14:11:28 | Usually ships in 24 hours


  • Saves up to 15,000 gallons per year
  • 24 hour timer lets you set it for your family needs
  • Very easy to install
  • Rebates may be available from utility company
  • Includes pump, sensor valve, and supply lines for easy installation

More Specification..!!

Watts 500800 Premier Hot Water Recirculation Pump, Blue

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Sunday, November 20, 2011

Electric Fuel Pumps - Design, Work and Faults

!: Electric Fuel Pumps - Design, Work and Faults

Electric fuel pump is used in modern internal combustion engines to supply fuel from the fuel tank to the injectors. The pump should deliver fuel under high pressure, so that the nozzle can spray it into the engine. For the proper engine operation fuel pressure should be within allowed specifications for a given engine. Too low-pressure can lead to "fuel starvation" engine misfire, excessive vibration or stop the engine under load. Too much pressure causes uneven engine running too rich mixture, and excessive pollution.

Electric fuel pumps are usually installed in fuel tank (intake), although some can be installed outside. Some cars may be equipped with two pumps (one pump inside the tank and the main pump on the outside). The location of the pump in the fuel tank helps mute the buzzing noise of pump's electric motor. Submersion into the fuel helps lubricate and cool the pump's engine. Driving with fuel tank filled with less than ¼ of its volume can shorten the life of the pump and cause rapid overheating. It also increases risk of pump left without of gas during rapid acceleration or deceleration.

The pump is usually part of a module that also includes a float that carries electrical signals to the level indicator, located on the dashboard. If the fuel pump needs replacing, it can be replaced separately or the complete module assembly (it is expensive, but much easier).

Different electric fuel pumps have different designs. Some older designs used to use forced displacement of the circulation pump chamber. This type of pump can produce very high pressure and constant flow. But at the outlet of the fuel pump has been strong pressure fluctuations, so often in the gas line after the pump was installed damper to reduce the amplitude of pulsation of gas pressure. Circulating chamber can also be installed outside the tank and used with the second low-pressure pump installed in the fuel tank.

There is another type of fuel pump - "rotor-type". This design is similar to design of the oil pump and uses the offset rotor to push the fuel through the pump. Another variation of the roller pump - "vane-type". The blades are used instead of rollers to push the gas through the pump. Most modern cars use a pump turbine. Blades of the impeller push gas through the pump. Turbine type pumps do not produce the pressure fluctuations these types are less complicated to manufacture and more reliable in operation. It is possible to replace a fuel pump by not original unit. In this case fuel pump's output should be within original specifications and as consumption the same as the original one. Use of an improper specs can cause deterioration of performance of the car.

How does electric fuel pump work?

When the ignition, the electronic control unit excites the relay, which supplies voltage to fuel pump, its motor starts to rotate, and within a few seconds it creates necessary gas pressure. Fuel feeds into the inlet pump through a mesh filter to delay the rust and dirt. Outlet of the pump the gas passes through the check valve, single acting (valve maintains a residual pressure in the system, when pump does not work) and feeds to the engine through the fuel line and filter. The fuel filter catches any rust, dirt and other solid contaminants that have passed through the pump to prevent the penetration of these particles in the injectors.

Further, the gas enters the fuel rail, located on the engine and from the rail to each injector. Fuel pressure regulator, located on the ramp, maintains the fuel pressure and throws any excess back to the tank. Start the engine and the electric fuel pump starts to operate continuously and to keep pumping gas until the engine is running. If the engine stops, then the electronic control unit receives a signal from the sensor and the crankshaft ECU will turn off the pump.

A lot of cars (especially Fords) have an inertial emergency switch which disables the fuel pump in the event of an accident. It is envisaged to reduce the risk of fire when the fuel line is damaged. To return the emergency transmitter to its original state - press the reset button on the sensor. On older cars pumps operated at a constant speed. In newer designs pump's speed is being controlled by the electronic control unit in order to precisely match allowed specifications.

Fuel pump failure

The fuel pump can fail for several reasons: - Due to the presence of contaminants inside the fuel tank (dirt or rust); - When driving out of gas; - As a result of overheating (in constant motion with a low level of gas in tank); - Low voltage (problems with electrical wiring); - As a result of overloading (for a clogged fuel filter excessive resistance of the filter element can cause an overload of electric motor pump). The harder the conditions of the fuel pump, the more power is required for its operation. Electric fuel pump often fails without any warning. You may drive your car without a trouble, and within a minute the pump fails, the engine just stalls and the car gets up in the middle of the road. Or in the morning you are going to start the car but the engine just will not start.

By what signs can one predict the damage the fuel pump? One way is to listen to the noise of the pump when the ignition is on. Complete absence of noise indicates that it is not working. It can be caused by a malfunction of the pump, pump relay malfunction, the fuse or the lack of voltage. On most cars when fuel pump fails you wouldn't see usual Check Engine light on. Most modern engines equipped with the union to check the fuel pressure on the ramp nozzles. Connecting fuel pressure gauge to the fitting check valve will quickly show whether the pump produces pressure or not. On engines without pressure test union, to measure pressure can be done by connecting directly to the fuel line at the junction of the ramp. If the gauge indicates zero - the pump does not work. If the pressure is less than nominal, it will be necessary to carry out further diagnosis to identify the causes of low fuel pressure.


Electric Fuel Pumps - Design, Work and Faults

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Thursday, November 17, 2011

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Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Solar Home Heat

!: Solar Home Heat

Solar heat for homes is not a daydream. As energy prices rise and the global community talks of energy sources drying up, solar homes are becoming increasingly appealing to consumers. So is the idea of heating the home with solar energy. As a result, ways to heat a home with solar energy are becoming more affordable.

Solar heat for homes can be achieved in several ways. It is not simply a matter of placing photovoltaic (PV) panels on the roof and generating electricity for a furnace. That can be done, but other things can also be done to get solar heat for homes.

Passive Solar Heat for Homes

Passive solar is one of the simplest methods of acquiring solar heat for homes. Passive solar heating collects and distributes heat from the sun without external, mechanical pumping systems.

Passive solar heat for homes begins by positioning the solar home in such a way that it takes full advantage of winter sunlight to warm interior rooms and walls. In the northern hemisphere, a solar home will be positioned to give its main area southern exposure. In the southern hemisphere, a solar home will be positioned to give its main area northern exposure.

Passive solar heat for homes is also available through building materials and architectural design. A solar home should have many vertical windows on its winter sun exposure side to collect solar warmth. These windows should be glazed, and uncovered during the day to allow warmth to enter. As the sun goes down, shades and curtains should be drawn to retain the heat. The side of the solar home that gets summer sunlight should have fewer, and smaller, windows.

A passive solar home should feature masses of brick, concrete, stone, or adobe (mud bricks) that absorb and hold heat during the day, releasing it gradually as the air cools. These building materials should be used for walls and floors where the sunlight will hit them.

Passive solar heat for homes also requires thick insulation. Once heat has entered the solar home through large, glazed windows, insulation will help hold it there as the air cools. Placing the garage on the non-solar side and main living quarters on the "exposure" side also helps heat a solar home.

Active Solar Heat for Homes

Active solar systems for heating a solar home consist of "collectors" that collect solar energy, and electric fans or pumps to distribute collected heat. Heat is transferred by liquid or air, and can be stored to provide heat when the sun is not shining.

Solar air "collectors" will collect solar energy in air passing through the system. The air absorbs the sun's heat, and transfers it into the solar home. This works best for heating individual rooms, although some systems can heat larger areas with the use of pumps and fans. Solar air collectors for individual rooms can be mounted in an existing window.

Solar liquid "collectors" are more appropriate for central heating. These are the same type of collector as those used in solar water heating systems. Flat plate collectors are mounted, usually on a roof. Each collector contains water, antifreeze, or another liquid that will collect the solar energy. At a predetermined time, regulated by a controller, a circulating pump sends the fluid through the roof-top collector. The liquid is directed to a heat exchanger for immediate use, or sent to a storage tank for later use.

Active liquid solar heat for homes can be sent through pipes under the floor to maintain an even radiant heat at floor level. Radiant floor heating is ideal for liquid solar systems. It performs well, even at relatively low temperatures.

Combination Solar Heat for Homes

The best solar home will combine passive and active solar energy collection. Passive solar heating can reduce heating bills by nearly 50 percent. Active solar heating can supply 40 to 80 percent of your heat, depending on your local climate and the system's size. Put the two together, and you have a solar home that is comfortable and efficient.

If concrete floors topped with tile are already warmed by passive solar heating, an active system that send hot water through pipes in those floors will keep the solar home cozy and warm.

Free Heating

Aside from any initial costs for active solar energy systems, solar heat for homes can be free. It is clean and environmentally friendly. It leaves a smaller carbon footprint, too. Is it for you? That is worth serious consideration.


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Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Prevent Pinhole and Slab Leaks and Conserve Energy by Controlling Your Hot Water Circulating Pump

!: Prevent Pinhole and Slab Leaks and Conserve Energy by Controlling Your Hot Water Circulating Pump

If you have had 1 leak, more will surely follow - you can do something about it before further damage is done and additional money is wasted.

Circulating hot water is the fastest way to wear out your pipes. In fact 90% of all pinhole leaks and slab leaks happen in hot water lines for the following reasons:

1. Chemicals in water are corrosive

2. Chemicals in water when heated are even more corrosive

3. Chemicals in water when heated and circulated through copper pipes that bend around corners and turn up walls and curve around electrical conduit and sewer pipes and are reduced in size as water passes through a building is extremely corrosive

In order to understand the solution it is helpful to know what causes the problem. With a little insight into how domestic hot water recirculation lines or recirc loops are built and how they work we can see that the answer is as easy as flipping a switch.

Apartments, hotels and larger homes have recirc loops designed to move hot water to the farthest fixture from the boiler or water heater in a reasonable amount of time. Each loop has a pump pushing water through a copper pipe 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Each loop has multiple joints and fittings that obstruct the flow of water. Gate or ball valves and flapper checks and expansion tanks and whatever else the plumber had on his truck the day he built the line create disturbances in the flow path.

Water likes to flow in a nice straight line with no obstructions. This is called laminar flow - nice and smooth. Anything in the flow path can disrupt the flow and cause an eddy to form. Eddies are the bad boys, the unwanted visitor, the black sheep of the family.

Create a little friction, add in some turbulence and the next thing you know you have a leak.

As your reading this please keep in mind there are things you can do to reduce or even eliminate leaks. They are relatively inexpensive and I'll tell you what they are in a minute.

When water pipes leak many things can happen - none of which are any good. Pinhole and slab leaks, mold, wasted water, wasted energy, property damage, resident/guest complaints and inconvenience all mean one thing.

It cost you time and money.

The only question left is how much? Please refer to Table 1 for an idea of how much a leak can cost.

Table 1: The Cost of a Leak

1 0 You caught the leak early and it wasn't buried in a wall or under a slab

2 ,000 The leak was in a wall and you caught it early and it was relatively accessible after tearing out some drywall

3 ,000 Same as above except you didn't catch it early and mold and light structural damage had occurred

4 ,000 The leak was underneath a concrete slab but you were able to pinpoint the exact location

5 ,000 Same as above except you had to chase the leak into other rooms

6 0,000 + The leak went unnoticed until someone got sick and you got sued

So there is the doom and gloom. What's the solution?

Good question. The answer is there are a number of things you can do. As you go through my list keep in mind that people only use hot water 15% to 20% of the time (based on a study by the California Energy Commission).

First, check your water pressure. 40 psi is high enough for most 1 or 2 story buildings. Be sure to check it in several places to find the lowest pressure in the building. Typically that would be the point furthest from the water meter. If you don't have a pressure regulator, put one in.

When implementing this strategy do it in stages. Drop the pressure by 5 psi at a time and wait to see if you have any complaints. Shower heads and aerators already restrict flow to 2.5 gpm or less. Newer fixtures like the Evolve line of low flow shower heads have pressure compensating technology built into them and work just as well at low pressure as they do at high pressure.

Second, turn off the pump when no one is using hot water. That's right. I said turn off the pump. As I mentioned earlier people only use hot water 15% to 20% of the time. The pump only needs to be on when people need water.

There are 3 methods of implementing this strategy:

1. The Manual Method

2. The Guessing Method

3. The Automated Method

Manual Method

Have someone go to the switch and turn on the pump when you need hot water and turn it off when you are done. Might be practical for a single family home (certainly not convenient) but impossible in an apartment or hotel.

The Guessing Method

Plug your pump into a timer and guess when hot water will be needed. This may be a practical solution if the number of people living in the house or apartment or with a limited number of guests in a hotel and everyone has the same predictable need for hot water. Unfortunately when hot water is needed during an off period the timer gets disabled and never turned back on.

The Automated Method

Think about your recirculation line as a closed loop. When there is no demand for hot water, no water enters or leaves the system. When a hot water faucet is turned on there is a "leak" in the system.

When water leaves the system more water is added from the city water line through a cold water make-up line (this is the technical name for the copper pipe that brings cold water to your water heater).

If a flow sensor is placed in the cold water make-up line, any indication of water movement would mean someone is using hot water.

If the sensor sensed a demand (i.e., someone turned on a hot water faucet) it could turn on the pump. The demand would be met and the pump could be turned off automatically when the demand ended.

That is precisely how an On-Demand Intelligent Pump Controller works. The pump is only on when there is a demand.

As it turns out, there are many benefits to automating your recirc pumps operation:

o Drastically reduces pinhole leaks and slab leaks - if the hot water is not moving, it is much less corrosive

o Energy is conserved - since people only use hot water 15% to 20% of the time, the pump will be off 80% to 85% of the time. That means the recirculation line isn't full of hot water and no energy is being lost. California Energy Commission studies indicate 37% less energy is consumed when an On-Demand Controller is installed.

Note: A sufficiently high speed pump is required (2,200 rpm or faster) to implement this strategy. If you have a high speed pump you will only need an ARC 100 Controller. If not you will need a full system including a high speed pump.

In conclusion, cut your risks, lower your losses, reduce your energy bill and extend the life of you pipes and water heater or boiler by turning off you recirc pump with an ARC 100 Pump Controller.

Contact me directly at the email address below to find out if this solution will work for you or what other options you might have. To purchase the ARC 100 Pump Controller click on the link below.

Do it now and sleep better tonight knowing that one of your biggest headaches just got cured.


Prevent Pinhole and Slab Leaks and Conserve Energy by Controlling Your Hot Water Circulating Pump

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Tuesday, April 19, 2011

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Saturday, April 9, 2011

Circulating Wood-Burning Stoves - Two Adjustable Settings For Using Them Efficiently

!: Circulating Wood-Burning Stoves - Two Adjustable Settings For Using Them Efficiently

The circulating wood-burning stove and its similar counterpart, the circulating fireplace insert, put out a cozy dry heat. This dry heat can help forestall cold-weather illnesses. These stoves work most efficiently when the draft and damper settings are correctly balanced.

Circulating stove or insert description

This stove or insert operates similarly. They are both made of iron or plate steel. They have hinged doors for adding wood to their fire chambers. The wood fuel is located on raised grates on the floor of these chambers, which also have outer metal jackets straight through which built-in electric fans circulate the room air. The hot metal plates on the chamber-side of these jackets warm the room air passing next to them, which, in turn, are blown back into the room continuously. For safety and efficiency reasons, this stove or insert is controlled thermostatically. That is, the circulating fans do not turn on until the warming jackets reach preset temperatures.

Term definitions

Draft. The small adjustable opportunity on the lower side of the fire-chamber that allows air to be pulled into the accommodation for burning purposes (the more air entering the chamber, the hotter and larger the flames). Damper. The adjustable flap on top of the stove or in the chimney flue that controls the number of smoke, ash, and vapor leaving the fire-chamber up straight through the flue or smokestack-pipe. It also helps to control the number of air entering the fire accommodation straight through the lower-placed draft opening. Warming jacket. The enclosed space around the fire-chamber straight through which the room air is circulated and warmed. Air vents. The louvered openings for the room air to enter and exit the warming jacket in a circulated manner.

Two main settings for burning the wood efficiently

The most efficient way to use the wood stove is to adjust the draft and damper blend to the minimum air and smoke flows needed to say a slow constant burn. When these two settings are in the spoton balance, the wood smolders moderately under low flames while providing sufficient heat at the same time. In other words, the wood needs to moderately combust and turn into hot coals with as limited flame as possible. This slow burning process allows the wood fuel to last for a maximum burn time.

Also, the heat produced at these settings is not wasted by overheating the room or by going up the chimney flue unnecessarily. These two settings might differ slightly for the distinct kinds of wood being burned. Yet, they are easy to adjust with a limited practice. Generally, the dry well-seasoned hard woods, like, oak or walnut will burn efficiently, consistently. However, other kinds of wood will also work by adjusting these two settings slightly, especially if that wood supply is low-cost or free.


Circulating Wood-Burning Stoves - Two Adjustable Settings For Using Them Efficiently

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Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Grundfos Circulating Pump 1"Barb 115V 12-18GPM 59896291

!: Promotion Grundfos Circulating Pump 1"Barb 115V 12-18GPM 59896291 Immediately


Rate : | Price : | Post Date : Mar 30, 2011 03:24:12
Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Grundfos Circulating Pump This pump is energy efficient and costs only pennies per day to operate. Its absolutely quiet, almost silent operation will assure your customer`s satisfaction. The newer pump has been completely redesigned with an ingenious rotating volute allowing installation in all plumbing configurations

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